Five heads, perfect little spheres, are covered in real hair, the colour changing from blonde to a cheap-looking fake brown to grey. Margiela told Lamarche-Vadel he loves the last one the most, when the subject finally accepts the traces of age. Fortunately, this is an artist who also believes in rebirth, having long worked with repurposed materials. Share your email to receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world.
Martin Margiela, Film Dust , , Oil on microbead-coated canvas. Above: Vanitas , , Silicone and natural dyed hair. Top: Martin Margiela, Body Part, colour , Oil pastel on repurposed projector screen. Above: Mould s , , Plaster, wood, and acrylic paint. Sign Up. You can unsubscribe at any time. Please keep me up to date with special offers and news just by email from carefully selected companies. I felt that I could not cope any more with the worldwide increasing pressure and the overgrowing demands of trade," the designer wrote.
Honestly, what's more Margiela than leaving an industry you helped pioneer? The move is still regarded as Big Anti-Fashion Energy. BAFE, if you will. From Martin Margiela's departure to the global impact spawned from his elusive nature begins to beg the question: is anti-fashion clothing? Or simply, is it a state of mind one can aspire to have?
After abandoning his role as the head of his maison, Margiela's label began to operate under a collective of anonymous designers, reinstating the collaborative nature of the house and himself. Then fallen-from-grace John Galliano joined the label in , three short years after departing Dior and nearly six since Margiela's exit. In an effort to fall back into the public's good graces, Galliano's work at Margiela once again began to show the world what he was capable of.
Much like his predecessor, Galliano's work at the house continues to innovate and inspire fashion's weird, fringe kids. Theatrical, colorful presentations once again proved there was a genius commanding a team of expert couturiers and seamstresses.
However, Galliano is a public figure, his whimsical, childlike wonder dominating fashion circles, much like he did during his Dior tenure. Is the world-shunning, anti-capitalist, middle-finger waving energy still there? In spirit, maybe. Much like modern-day criticism towards punk , fashion's finest can allege our current anti-fashion world is a watered-down version of the original.
But fashion constantly re-invents itself, right? Although we've come a long way from our anti-fashion roots, it doesn't mean our current version is any better or worse. Whether there is a figure that eclipses' Martin Margiela's genius or not in our current landscape, the fashion legend has inspired countless others.
Raf Simons, a young furniture designer, turned to garment making after watching Margiela's playground runway. Marc Jacobs , one of the United States' most influential designers, constantly affirms his love for Margiela's impact on avant-garde couture. For us normies, the labels iconic Tabi shoes are making a comeback—no doubt a surprise if you've scrolled on your TikTok For You Page for less than ten minutes.
It's legendary, anti-fashion cameltoes for days. As we look forward into our current mystifying fashion landscape, digital or not , we have to toast to Margiela's out-of-the-box creations that electrified a generation. United States. Type keyword s to search. By Ana Escalante. One year later, in , the Palais Galliera — where Saillard was director between and — rolled out a complete retrospective of his work at Maison Martin Margiela, executed with the blessing and consultancy of the designer.
Both shows were immortalised in books, but none of them featured the voice of the man himself. For a designer, who famously conducted all interviews over fax machine, and in the third person, that idea was unimaginable. But then! For the first time ever, the designer talks about his career, his education and childhood, while footage of his hands at work fills in for his face, leaving those familiar with the anonymity and the myth entirely gobsmacked. In a sense, the documentary and the exhibitions complete a trilogy at the hand of Martin Margiela himself, which breaks with the obscurity and silence that surround his mystery, and takes charge of the facts — and indeed, inventions — of his legacy.
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