Have you ever consider the minimum power while buying your flashes? If No is your answer than you are buying your flashes all wrong. Because so many times the minimum flash power plays a big role in your photography. Creating such images without flash is always easy, but you will never have the light control you need with natural lights. Thus we use artificial lights, so we have more control on direction.
But for creating such DOF you need a flash to fire on very minimal flash power. So for this any day i would suggest flashes such as Canon , Godox , Profoto A1 as they all are around 70 Watts, so they can fire on a very low power and gives you just the right amount of power you need for such shots.
While i am showing you the benefits of buying less powerful lights, I am not even denying the requirement of high power units such as Godox AD pro, Profoto B1x or Broncolor Siros for your outdoor sunny day shoots. As much as you will need some low power flashes for your indoor studio works, you will sure need the powerful flash units for your outdoor wide angle fashion shots.
As the image given above requires to cover a long Dynamic Range. We used 2 flash units outputting watts power on our Model Sara. For shots like this you really need powerful lights. Speedlights 70 watts, such as Godox , Canon , Profoto A1. Good for Indoor and Basic outdoor Portrait shots and some full body shots depending on the time of the day.
Good for Indoor, but not for very shallow DOF shots. A must buy units for full body outdoor shots. As lot of things matters for making the right decision for buying the right flashes.
Your shooting style, time of the day, shot styles, distance, modifiers, weather and much more are there to consider when you are selecting your lighting gear. I know many of you will still have questions for buying the right flash system for your use, but a good news for you guys is, we have a ASK US option available on our blog menu.
Yeah, I have, but my wife won't have CFL in the fixture above the dining table, but in this case I agree because the CFL equivalent is ill suited to fit the mini lampshades on each light, nor do they output sufficient illumination no equivalent to 60w in 'flame' style CFL bulbs.
We have CFL most everywhere else. In the kitchen with floodlights, that was back when CFL floodlights had not come into existence yet. Approve the Cookies This website uses cookies to improve your user experience.
By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy. Register to forums Log in. Aliengreen Aliengreen Member. Aug 23, 1. LIKES 0. Aug 23, 2. Strobe tubes don't actually pull X amount of constant wattage it's just a short burst of energy which is why they actually save money over using high power hot lights.
Aug 23, as a reply to isoMorphic's post 3. Your brother is pulling your leg Aug 23, as a reply to The Loft Studios's post 4. Aug 23, 5. Aug 23, 6. Aug 23, 7. Wilt wrote in post Your w-s monolight is rated for how much electricity is stored into the charge capacitor during recycle, to later be sent to the flash tube.
Aug 23, 8. Aug 23, 9. Aug 23, Wilt wrote in post The first tier is cheap. Jump to forum Not a member yet? Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!
Cheap flashes can vary in colour temperature and on output slightly with each and every firing of the flash, which can mean extra work for you in post processing. There is also the obvious reliability angle. Studio flash output is measured in watts per second, or Joules basically the same thing. In fact, having too powerful a flash in too small a space will be counter productive and probably flood the space with too much uncontrollable light.
More powerful lights are also more expensive as you probably expected , and may take longer to recycle. This is something that people tend to overlook when looking for flashes — I know I certainly did when I bought my first set of lights: How far can your flash lights be turned down?
It may not be important if you only ever use them in a basic studio setting, but I needed to use them on location in a house to light a model sat in a window — I found I was unable to turn them down far enough to balance light on the model with the light coming in from outside. This is how quickly the flash will deliver a given quantity of light — will the flash give a brighter burst in a shorter time, or not so bright over a longer period of time th of second versus th of a second for example.
What will you using them for? For straight forward portraits and still life, then this is not such a concern. What portable studio lights would give comparable output at a similar price? Yep, a low cost Alien Bee is less money and has more features and benefits. For only a few dollars more, you can get remote controls added. So you are getting a very well engineered, powerful, easily adjustable, good TTL system for a pretty reasonable amount of money.
Sure I would like them to be less expensive, so I could buy my second one faster. Thanks Neil for another informative posting. At one business portrait session earlier in the year, all of my studio lights stopped working and just refused to fire. I had 24 business women waiting to have their portraits taken, a mix of Nikon Speedlights and an Elinchrom Quadra saved the day for me! What setting did you use Neil? When doing environmental portraits I find that speed-lights work great because of the ease of gelling them to match the room lighting, and because of how low I can set the output.
Could I get that low an output on a Profoto B1? I can dial the Profoto B1 down by 8 stops from what you see there. Obviously the speedlight will be able to give you smaller blips of light than the Profoto.
From my understanding though, the profoto has no Hss option. You lose about 2 stops of light with HSS. So it is near impossible to use speedlights in HSS mode with a diffuser or softbox, with flash in bright light. You need juice!
If Hss is offered I will be all over this thing! Nd filters are just too much of a hassle when shooting weddings in my opinion. In the example above, it makes perfect sense as a more than viable option. The unit for the energy emitted by a studio flash or anything else is Joule, which is abbreviated J. Energy is power integrated over time, so one Watt over one second gives us one Watt-second, which is the same thing as one Joule.
Watt-second is abbreviated Ws, nothing else. This is a Great discussion Neil. I started out using the Nikon speedlights as my primary gear. Easy to set up, portable I loved them and still do. But they are inadequate to overpower the sun, unless as you point out you gang up multiples. That gets expensive. I quickly discovered the Einstein lights, and then more recently the powerful ws quantum flash, and variations such as the cheetah light.
For me I think, it all boils down to the quality of light. Light modifiers, whether the umbrella, softbox, or reflectors, or even zooming the speedlight make a huge difference to the final result.
0コメント